what does no sag spring mean

Check out our comprehensive Guide to Buying a Mountain Bike for more information. The purpose of suspension is to dampen the roughness of the terrain, providing the rider with a smoother, more controlled ride. Mean diameter is the overall outside diameter of the spring less one wire diameter. See our table for an explanation of the amount of travel and the corresponding type of bike. The vast majority of suspension forks keep the spring and damper separate, with the spring often in the left stanchion and the damper in the right. need one apparently. Recently, I had some time with Rockshox brand ambassador and SRAM MTB marketing manager Duncan Riffle, who also happens to be a 2x U.S. National Downhill Champ and former World Cup DH competitor, so we discussed the finer points of suspension set up. • Submit News Mine (or my goal) is something I have picked from MX’ing and its supported by MTB authorities too (f. ex. dealing with both bumps and holes. (rear), twitchy (rear) or slow-turning (rear). You can see this if you mount a bathroom scale under your wheels. Determination of the number of active coils varies according to spring design. In the correct attack position you have 100% of your weight on your feet (no matter if its downhill or up). If your bike has a high leverage ratio, then it can muscle through the travel too easily if you’re running too much sag, too, so start on the low end. Although most suspension brands offer a similar range of adjustments options, the mechanism to do so will vary. 30-35% of travel, while the back should be at about 25%. But first, make sure your fork and shock both have their compression damping set to their fully Open/Descend positions, then hop on the bike…eval(ez_write_tag([[300,250],'bikerumor_com-medrectangle-3','ezslot_2',103,'0','0'])); “Understand that when you set your sag, it has nothing to do with your body weight (sitting) directly over the BB or shock,” says Riffle. The ratio changes but the fact remains. “It has everything to do with how your weight is pressing on the bike in a neutral ride position. I do this because if the spring rates are too close to each other you can get into a ‘pitching’ mode very easily if both ends ride near the same frequency where you buck forward and backward. Should I set it while I’m double tailwhipping off of a 50 foot step down? If only they’d make one that measures shocks, too, based on stroke length or something. Working like telescopic tubes, a fork is made up of stanchion tubes (the ‘inner tubes’) that slide in and out of the fork lowers (the outer tubes) and joined with a brace (lower arch). As is, it’s based on MM of travel, so it only works on forks. Thanks to The Ride Cycles for helping out with the creation of this article. Our next series will look at what is involved in a suspension set-up, how to upgrade and why with first-hand advice from suspension experts from Cyclinic and MTBSuspension. If it’s a shorter travel bike, then you’ve got less to work with and should start off on the lower end of the spectrum, around 25%. Guys, give ‘Huh’ a break. That is true even if you are pushing fairly hard on the pedals. All of those change the amount if weight on the bike. It has to do with the center of mass of your body and how it interacts with the bike. There are a number of ways that brands achieve this, the most popular of which is through using larger diameter stanchion tubes and specific oversized axles to hold the front wheel in place, known as thru-axles. Let’s think about it. The front wheel is attached to the fork lowers, while the stanchions are attached to the headtube of a bike frame, via the fork steerer. force due to your weight is added. Might also mention that if setting up a new bike is to after a good few hours on the bike is to recheck the sag after the forks and rear shock have been broken in.. Linkage design has a notable impact on rear end sag as well. More rebound damping produces a slower returning fork, less rebound dampening produces suspension that returns faster. Mean diameter of spring. Which means the spring rate is 30-40% stiffer than it should be, and it I strongly disagree with the comments that you should get different sag depending on whether you are standing or not. * Riffle’s preferred starting point is between 25% and 30% for his 160mm to 200mm travel bikes. is more stable under acceleration, not some hocus-pocus about the rear shock not being Suspension savvy mechanics will tell you that cheaper suspension will simply not have the same quality internals, the implications being that the internals break down under repeated usage due to the heat and friction generated from riding. Suspension set up is deserving a whole other article, so stay tuned later in the series for our guide to setting up your suspension. So, ready to rethink everything about how your suspension is set up? Sag: The correct air pressure or coil spring choice is determined by measuring sag, which is how much the suspension compresses simply under the rider's weight when sat on the bike, this is with no further input from the rider or the trail. For example, most modern forks offer the option to close the damper, providing a lockout to the suspension. it blows my mind that people buy these bikes and don’t understand this. At virtually every mountain bike and suspension launch we attend, we’re told to simply sit on the bike while someone slides the “fun-o-meter” ring to the base of the fork or shock, then we hop off and see where it lies. When it comes to front and/or rear suspension, the functions and adjustment options are often very similar. A suspension fork is based around a spring and a damper - yet it is far from that simple! When he was racing downhill, it was more like 30% to 35%, depending on the bike and the course. bit. No, the rear shock sag should not be set in the standing position for bike park riding. Thank goodness for this article! compress 50mm to hold up the bike, only 30-35mm are needed. I’m surprised their hasn’t been more development on Active Suspension for mountain bikes, e.g. rate. The last time I was in the “correct attack” position I was pretty sure I couldn’t remove my hands and not move. When I set fork sag, I place the rear wheel on a cinder block, to simulate an attack position and to bias more weight forward. To get it right, there are two things to consider: Rider position and amount of sag. Mind you, I was happy with the bike’s performance before, but setting the shock up a little softer made a noticeable improvement in its small bump absorption with no discernible downside. I find as a trail rider that goes for the DH Predominantly that lifting the rear end off the ground( raising-it with a block, or curb) I can see what the sag is like or would be like descending. Generally speaking, somewhere between 15% and 40%. essentially rigid: it needs at least 15mm worth of spring force to start the wheel moving at However it can change stiffness in If you want to be absolutely sure, have a third friend record the measurements while you’re still on the bike. harsh on bumps, twitchy (front) or slow turning (rear). travel it sits, relative to fully extended, is called the sag. You measure the bike sag, which is how much Thanks for being there…… J.J. in Houston. connected to the frame. The degree of adjustability and tuning is near infinite in an air spring.

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